MOD-WISE BOOT OPENER INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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This installation was done by Ian Barrett and hosted with David Beers consent.

This installation was started at 12.30 and finished at 17:00 and I used the following tools;

* Gaffer Tape to stick the wires to the body.
* Torch, mainly for peering inside the door lock cavity.
* EvoStick impact adhesive to glue the carpets back in place.
* Flat Blade Screwdriver for removing the boot lock actuator
* Soldering Iron and solder (optional)
* Wire Cutter/Crimper.
* A pair of Grips or Pliers for closing the scotchlock connector.
* Clamps for holding the carpet out of the way.

(PIC: The tools I used)

(The kit)

Working in the boot, start by peeling back the top piece of carpet to expose the boot lock and actuator.

You need to attach the ‘cut-off’ red and black wires to the wires connecting the two. To make this easier, you can open the white connector joining them together.

The connector might be tucked behind a body strengthener and you may need to unscrew the actuator from its housing to gain easier access to the wires.

( Actuator cable connector)

The white wiring connector has a 'hook and eye' clasp on both sides so use your fingernail to pop them apart whilst gently pulling the wires.

The wire colours from the loom side are not followed through to the actuator but this doesn't matter because the connector will only fit one way round.

I worked on the loom side (to avoid having to re-do it if I ever have to replace the actuator), cutting the red wire and splicing in my new red wire and covering the joint with heatshrink. I then followed the same process with the black wires. Although Scotchlock connectors are supplied I chose to solder mine but this is just personal preference.

Plug the wiring connector back together and test normal operation of the boot lock.

Now, still in the boot, you are going to have to peel back the carpet on the underside of the passenger wing and feed the micro switch and red power cable (with fuse) through from the boot, over the inner wheel arch into the cavity where the passenger door lock is.

You have to be a bit of a contortionist to do this but you have to shove your left hand in over the arch, past some sponge and push the switch as far as you can.

Now with the passenger seat forward, uncover the lock access area by peeling back the carpet and kneel by the passenger door. Put your left hand up through the hole and into the wheel arch and pull the switch through.

Next you will be working on the door wiring. To make this easier I suggest you take the targa roof out but leave the back up so you have something to lean on.

You will also need good access to the passenger side. I was fortunate to be in the process of swapping the seats so I took the passenger seat out.

Attaching the micro switch to the lock mechanism looks confusing when you read the supplied instructions but isn't really. Look sideways at the lock mechanism and you will see a bar at the front which is about an inch long, rounded at the top and bottom with a slot cut through it and which moves up/down when the doors are locked/unlocked – highlighted in the picture. This is what you are attaching the micro switch to.

( The door lock).

Attach the micro switch by pushing just one bolt head through it from left to right then sliding the plastic with the slot in it over the bolt head on the other side. The micro switch actuating arm will be pointing to 12 o’clock when it’s installed correctly.

I had to turn the piece of plastic (with the hole and slot cut into it) upside down to get the angle right to allow it to attach.

A word of caution, don’t undo the wingnuts too far, if you knock one off it can drop into the sill and take half an hour of 'fishing' with a magnet on string to get it back again!

Now for the wiring.

There are two purple wires, or at least there was in my car, you need one of them.

( Door lock connectors).

To find the correct wire, switch the interior light on and pull a connector apart so the light goes out.

To prove everything is going to work before you start scotch locking it together, try this:

Get the wire with the fuse in it and bare the end half an inch of cable and tuck it inside the female part of the connector for the purple wire and gently push together until the light comes on again.

( Connectors with temp release wire).

 

You can also see the string I tied around the correct purple wire as a reference in this picture.

Test the opener now by swiping the magnet across the release switch. If it works you can scotchlock the wires together. Because space here is so limited I didn't attempt to solder the wire in this time for fear of damaging another wire.

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Now you've just got to gaffer tape any wires to the body work to stop them chafing then find somewhere suitable for the aerial such as behind the number plate or inside the light clusters. Don’t put it behind a body panel as the swiping of the magnet across the switch may scratch the bodywork.

And finally, glue the carpets back.

My thanks to David Beer of Mod-Wise for allowing me to publish these instructions.

 

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